Type 3 Hair: How To Identify & Style Curly Hair Like A Pro

Discover how to identify Type 3 curly hair, and learn expert styling tips for perfecting your curls. Understand the nuances of curl patterns, care techniques, and ways to enhance your natural texture for a flawless look.

What Is Hair Typing & Why It Matters

Hair typing is a classification system that breaks down different hair textures into four main types: Type 1 (straight), Type 2 (wavy), Type 3 (curly), and Type 4 (coily). This guide focuses on Type 3 curly hair, a popular but often misunderstood category. Knowing your hair type can help tailor your care routine, ensuring better product choices and styling techniques for a well-managed, beautiful look.

Overview of the Hair Typing System

The hair typing system classifies hair into types based on the structure and pattern of the strand. Here’s a quick breakdown of the four main categories:

Type 1: Straight Hair – No curl pattern; smooth and reflective.
Type 2: Wavy Hair – Slight "S" pattern, ranging from loose to defined waves.
Type 3: Curly Hair – Defined curls with a spiral or ringlet appearance.
Type 4: Coily/Kinky Hair – Tight curls, either zigzag or corkscrew-shaped.

Within each type, hair is further broken down into subcategories A, B, and C based on the tightness or looseness of the curl pattern.

Understanding Type 3 Hair

What Is Type 3 Hair?

Type 3 hair refers to curly hair, with strands forming a clear spiral shape. It has a defined curl pattern, ranging from loose, bouncy curls to tight corkscrews. Type 3 hair tends to be full of body and volume, but it can be prone to frizz and dryness due to the nature of its structure.

Within Type 3, there are three subcategories: 3A, 3B, and 3C. Each of these has unique traits, and identifying which subcategory your curls fall into can help you determine the best styling and care routine for your hair.

Type 3A Hair: Loose, Voluminous Spirals

3A hair is the loosest curl pattern within the Type 3 category. Curls are typically large, well-defined spirals, resembling the circumference of a thick marker. These curls are often soft and shiny, but they are more prone to being weighed down by heavy products, making them lose their shape.

Key Traits of 3A Hair:

Curl Diameter: The largest of the Type 3 group, with loose, "S"-shaped curls.
Texture: Smooth and softer than other curl types, but easily stretched out.
Volume: Often less voluminous than tighter curls but still has natural bounce.

Styling Tips for 3A Hair:

Avoid heavy products: Since 3A hair can easily lose definition, opt for lightweight styling creams, mousses, and gels to enhance your natural texture without weighing it down.
Clarify regularly: Product buildup can make 3A curls limp. Use a clarifying shampoo once a month to remove residue.
Plop for volume: Hair plopping is a great way to set curls without frizz. Using a soft cotton T-shirt to cradle wet curls will encourage them to dry naturally in a defined shape.

Type 3B Hair: Defined, Springy Curls

3B hair features tighter, springier curls than 3A, typically forming well-defined ringlets. These curls are about the circumference of a large crayon, and while they can maintain their shape more easily, they also tend to be prone to frizz if not properly hydrated.

Key Traits of 3B Hair:

Curl Diameter: Medium-sized ringlets, tighter and more defined than 3A.
Texture: Naturally voluminous with a good bounce but can be prone to dryness.
Volume: Tends to have more fullness and body due to tighter curls.

Styling Tips for 3B Hair:

Hydrate heavily: This hair type is thirstier, so moisturizing conditioners and curl creams are key. Consider switching from a regular conditioner to a deep-conditioning hair mask for extra hydration.
Sulfate-free shampoos: Avoid sulfates, which can strip natural oils. Opt for a gentle, sulfate-free cleanser that maintains moisture balance.
Apply products to wet hair: To lock in curl definition, apply curl creams and gels to soaking-wet hair for optimal frizz control and curl hold.

Type 3C Hair: Tight, Voluminous Coils

Type 3C hair is the tightest curl pattern in the Type 3 family. The curls are dense, tightly coiled spirals that can be the size of a pencil or straw. 3C hair often appears thicker due to the tighter curl structure and requires a bit more care to avoid breakage.

Key Traits of 3C Hair:

Curl Diameter: Smaller, tight curls, similar to a pencil or drinking straw.
Texture: Coarser and denser, leading to more volume but also more prone to tangles.
Volume: Maximum volume, with curls starting close to the scalp.

Styling Tips for 3C Hair:

Focus on moisture retention: Since 3C hair is prone to dryness, use leave-in conditioners, curl creams, and oils to lock in hydration and prevent breakage.
Detangle gently: 3C hair can tangle easily, so use a wide-tooth comb or detangling brush with a lot of slip (e.g., a conditioner or detangler).
Heat protection: If you choose to heat style, always use a heat protectant to guard against damage.

Additional Factors for Curly Hair Care

Porosity: The Key to Proper Moisture

Hair porosity refers to how well your hair absorbs and retains moisture. Type 3 hair often has medium to high porosity, meaning it absorbs moisture quickly but may lose it just as fast. This is crucial to understanding how often and with what type of products you should be moisturizing your curls.

High porosity: Use thicker creams and oils to seal in moisture.
Low porosity: Opt for lightweight products and avoid heavy oils that can cause buildup.

Density & Thickness

Density refers to how closely packed your hair strands are, while thickness refers to the diameter of each strand. Type 3 curls can range in both, but knowing your density and thickness helps with choosing products and styles. For example, high-density hair can handle heavier creams, while lower density may require lighter products to avoid flattening.

Curly Hair Styling Tools & Techniques

Must-Have Tools for Type 3 Hair

For Type 3 hair, having the right tools can make all the difference. Here are some essentials:

Diffuser attachment for blow dryers: A diffuser helps distribute heat evenly without disrupting your curl pattern, making it a must for frizz-free curls.
Wide-tooth comb or detangling brush: These help prevent breakage while detangling wet hair.
Satin pillowcase or bonnet: Curly hair is prone to frizz, and a satin pillowcase reduces friction during sleep.

Styling Techniques for Best Results

Scrunching: This method encourages curl definition by scrunching up the hair while applying a curl cream or gel.
Finger coiling: To define each curl, take small sections of hair and wrap them around your finger, creating more uniform ringlets.
Twist-outs: A common method for defining curls, twist-outs involve dividing the hair into sections, twisting each, and leaving them to set overnight. This results in more controlled, defined curls.

Conclusion: Embrace & Celebrate Your Curls

Understanding Type 3 hair is the first step in mastering your curls. From identifying whether you're a 3A, 3B, or 3C, to knowing how to moisturize, style, and protect your strands, curly hair requires thoughtful care and patience. Embrace your curls with the right tools, techniques, and products, and celebrate the unique beauty they bring to your look.